Boston Phoenix, 06/27/2002, continued
A side order of raita ($1.95), or yogurt salad, is thinner and mintier than what I make at home, the better to cool the fiery spices.
Tandoori fish ($14.95) is actually salmon in "Bengali-style spices." The tasty spices form a protective crust on the salmon, so if you don’t like spices, you can peel them off and have a nicely grilled piece of salmon, with some broiled tomatoes and onions on the side.
Taste of India has a decent wine list, but wine doesn’t really go with much of the food.
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I took a flyer on a glass of Villa Maria 1999 New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc ($6 glass/$22 bottle), and another of Cyprus 1999 California Chardonnay ($5/$18). The former has the piney-fruity flavors that stand up so well to a lot of postmodern cooking, and it works pretty well with the biryani. The latter is clean and oaky, a good, inexpensive choice for the tandoori fish, maybe. But you may prefer bottled Indian beer, American beers, or thin yogurt lassis. With dessert, there is a small cup of masala tea ($1.75), the original "chai."
Desserts are important to Bangladeshis, and intensely sweet. Our picks were the kulfi ($3.95), the original ice cream, made here in a choice of flavors. We took mango,
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