Boston Globe, 03/08/01, continued
... drained and pressed (think tofu), then tossed with spinach and cream went into the rich, deep-tasting palak panir ($9.99)
Seekh kabob ($9.99) had been formed from ground beef and onions mixed with a little heat, then skewered and cooked in the clay oven. Roast chicken ($9.95), also cooked in clay, had a dark, creamy sauce made from coconut milk, butter, and caramelized onions. Where many restaurants offer meats from the tandoor and dramatically overcook them, Taste of India's meats were moist and a world apart.
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Chicken tikka ($9.99) was colored the bright red of many modern tandoor foods, but still juicy. The tandoor mixed grill (a deal at $13.95, and though over our $12 cheap ceiling, plenty for two people with a curry and bread) was a stunning presentation. It arrived in a mini copper tub set over hot coals (none of that dreadful sterno stuff), to keep the pieces of shrimp, chicken, beef, lamb, and fish toasty.
We finished with a luxurious ras malai ($2.49), homemade cheese steamed and cooked in a barely sweetened cardamom- and saffron-flavored cream. This place does everything well. The lights aren't just on, they're burning brightly.
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